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Hole in the Wall Find: Dinner at Da i 2 Ciccioni in Rome, Italy


Chicken sauteed in white wine with rosemary

It’s always great when you can eat dinner at the house of local, and for those of us without friends in Rome having dinner at Da i 2 Ciccioni is the next best thing. Located on a small residential street in Trastevere, there is no sign on the door (not because this place is uber exclusive but most likely because this establishment isn’t entirely legal, but that is also part of it’s appeal). Just look for Aldo, the house dog, and a guests swilling red wine from glasses and you’ll find it. All this makes for a really atmospheric hole-in-the-wall gem unlike any place else I’ve eaten in Rome.

It’s not exactly a ristorante or a trattoria, but more like a guy’s apartment where he cooks dinner and serves it in his living room slash dining room. Da i 2 Cicconi has a unique unpretentious charm all it’s own

Da i 2 Ciccioni is not minimalist– it’s genuinely sparsely furnished. The living room has four tables set with mismatched chairs. There is no menu, because everyone gets the same meal (although the protein varies between chicken and pork). If you want to ask for any modifications you better speak Italian because no one here speaks English. First up was the bruschetta on rustic bread which was tasty with the house wine (poured from a Costco sized jug into pitchers on the table).

Left: Boys night out at Da i 2 Cicconi Right: Aldo, the restaurant’s resident pooch works the crowd

The house specialty is rigatoni all’amatriciana

Left: rigatoni all’amatriciana Right: A bottle of Limoncello and a basket of cookies finished the meal

First up: home made bruscetta

Next up we were served the three pastas Rome is famous for: amatriciana, cacio e pepe, and carbonara- all served over the same type of bucatini noodles. The amatricana was the standout for me. For our protein we had sauteed chicken with rosemary and garlic. Lastly, a basket of Italian cookies and a bottle of Limoncello – complete with those small plastic cups you use at the dentist’s office were placed on the table.

Gianni, the chef, in the kitchen

Da i 2 Cicconi isn’t for those who require presentation, because there isn’t any. It’s basic, delicious, genuine and a great value for money. The food is simple and unpretentious and not particularly imaginative, but the whole experience is fascinating and satisfying and an oddly refreshing change of pace. Plus, it’s a bargain compared to most joints in the area and isn’t overrun with tourists. It’s a meal I won’t soon forget and I’ll definitely come back again.

I’m not sure who the second fat guy is, but the one with the mustache is Gianni

Dinner runs 20- 30 Euros per person (including wine). There was no written check so pricing is a tad unclear and we tipped generously at this cash only joint.

 

 

Da i 2 Ciccioni

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vicolo del Cedro 3

00153 Roma

Italy

phone +39 3394775805

Closed on Sundays. No credit cards.